January 23rd, 2012

Behind-the-scenes: Daily Beast article

It’s been several weeks since my Daily Beast article on the perils of organic kid products. Thanks to everyone who read and commented. I’ve enjoyed the dialogue and have made quite a few new friends who share my frustration at the quality of foods being marketed for our little ones.

 

 

While the piece summarizes my views on an organic industry that preys on overtired, easily alarmed parents, it doesn’t address some major takeaways from my research and interviews. Strolling the aisles of Whole Foods and speaking with my sources, I was struck repeatedly by the following thoughts…

 

Parents wouldn’t eat these foods. What Whole Foods shopping, health-conscious adults would eat a diet of frozen, canned, puffed and preserved foods? Even if they did, would they consider their diets balanced?

Babies and children may have fewer teeth and slightly different dietary needs, but they are not a different species. Grocery stores now have entire sections devoted to food for children (just as they do for our pets!) – special cereals, yogurts, drinks, nutrition bars, crackers, frozen meals and pastas to name just a few . It is a niche fabricated for profit’s, rather than nutrition’s, sake.

As Jill Gusman put it – “a child can eat anything an adult eats – sometimes in a simpler format.”

 

Organic is (almost) beside the point.  A lot of readers were hung up on a portion of the article that discussed organic labeling (for those who are still confused - here it is straight from the horse’s mouth). While I believe that many of today’s kid products are misleading with respect to how many ingredients are organic, even those processed foods that are 95-100% organic will always be inferior to fresh, whole foods.

When forced to buy some prepackaged snack, will I select an organic brand? Sure – but it’s still a last resort.

 

Snack time, all the time. Nina Planck pointed out a trend I observed constantly in the city – kids riding around in their strollers eating puffed vegetable products or pureed food in a squishy pouch. “I even saw one mom spooning food into her child’s mouth as he rode on the swings,” said Planck.

Why? These foods are mess-free and keep on-the-go kids (and their parents) happy. The problem comes when dinner, or any meal served at a table, comes around. Not only are kids uninterested in the food being served, they fail to appreciate the ritual of sitting with others, enjoying food with their eyes and noses as well as their mouths.

Snacks can have their place, but it isn’t on wheels. Take ten minutes to sit and enjoy a nutritious snack with your child – everyone wins in the long run.

 

Trust your instincts: healthy eating doesn’t require an advanced degree. Fear and condescension are extremely effective for luring in parent consumers – don’t take the bait. Nutrition is a vast body of knowledge, and cooking well does require a bit of practice, but most parents already know the basics. Cooking simple recipes with fresh, whole food and a variety of ingredients (think colors) will already guarantee a more balanced diet than the prepackaged organics sold for kids.

 

It’s not about perfection. Everyone I spoke with agree on this point – a food utopia is not the goal.

But here’s how this argument often goes – “I don’t want to be one of THOSE parents that forbids fun foods. If I say no, he’ll only go overboard down the road.”

Agreed – when we demonize foods, whether for ourselves or our kids, rebellion is guaranteed. But, as Planck put so well, there are treats (high quality but indulgent foods – think bacon, honey, homemade baked goods) and there is junk (processed products with unrecognizable ingredients).

Find a place for treats, do your best to avoid junk, and help your kids to understand the difference. “Because I said so” teaches kids that junk foods are forbidden fruit – a real conversation about health and balance is the key.

 

 

January 5th, 2012

Kale Caesar!

 

I couldn’t resist.

Kale salads have been popping up on restaurant menus for a while as people recognize the benefits of eating leafy greens. Bright and curly, kale will kick up the nutritional profile of your favorite salad – it helps fight cancer, reduce inflammation, protect your heart AND reduce stress. Who couldn’t use a little of one (or all) of the above?

But the benefits of kale don’t end there – tough leaves won’t become limp and unappetizing once dressed. In fact, the greens benefit from marinating for at least a few hours. Many dressings work well, but a creamy one (like my version of a caesar below) tastes and looks especially pleasing. You can make kale salads hours or days in advance – a great way to keep healthy, satisfying lunch options on hand.

 

 

Creamy Kale Caesar with Walnuts

A healthy, satisfying salad that is perfect for the cold and flu season. Red pepper flakes help relieve congestion and improve immunity, and walnuts are an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids. Enjoy as a side dish, or top with a piece of grilled fish and call it dinner. Serves 4-6.

 

  • 1 bunch kale – stemmed and chopped
  • 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 cup lemon juice
  • 2 Tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 3 oz creamy goat cheese
  • 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
  • 3/4 cup toasted, chopped walnuts

 

  1. Whisk together the oil, lemon juice, vinegar and garlic. Add the goat cheese and mix until creamy. Add red pepper flakes, salt and pepper to taste.
  2. Place the chopped kale in a large salad bowl. Pour half of the dressing over the kale and toss to coat. Add additional dressing 1-2 tbsp at a time – you probably won’t need all of it. Stir in the walnuts.
  3. Cover the salad bowl and place in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight. Keeps for several days.

 

 

December 31st, 2011

Check it out!

My article on THE DAILY BEAST is up!

I examine the myths and marketing behind some of today’s most popular kid foods.

 

 

Click HERE to read and comment – and don’t forget to check out the photo gallery for details on newest culprits to hit shelves.

Special thanks to Nina Planck, Jill Gusman, Dana Davis and Danielle Friedman for their insightful comments.

Be sure to check back later in the week for my behind-the-scenes take on this issue.

 

December 29th, 2011

Where were we…

Greetings from the other side.

You guessed it…

We’ve traded our double stroller for a station wagon; our distant, disinterested scowls for a smile and a wave; our doorman and super for, well…ourselves.

While life in suburbia is still mysterious and new, I’m happy to report that the grass is in fact greener.

 

 

Since arriving two weeks ago, I’ve been busy learning the ropes and finding new food and farmer friends. So far my favorite is Double L Market in Westport – a friendly spot with local, organic produce, dairy and other delicious staples. If you live in the area, I encourage you to check this place out.

As for cooking, we managed some delicious holiday meals amid all of the chaos – roast chicken, baked macaroni and cheese, carmelized Brussels sprouts, and a wonderful Christmas stew from 101 Cookbooks (I went with chicken stock made fresh from the roast bird we ate on Christmas Eve – gave it a fantastic flavor). No photos this time around, but here’s a glamour shot of my new home office.

 

 

Needless to say, I’m feeling inspired and excited by our new digs – not to mention another little project I’ve been working on…

STAY TUNED!

 

November 10th, 2011

What to eat? Traditional food.

 

What to eat? Traditional Food.

Shielding our bodies from scientific innovation.

Food and tradition. These words take on new meaning around this time of year.

Much as we love eating for it’s sheer pleasure, the acts of cooking and gathering for a meal are even more rewarding.

The ceremony and value of these practices, recognized by traditional cultures for centuries, have now been relegated to a handful of holidays throughout the year. Up until the early nineteenth century, although traditional meals varied from region to region, they were, without exception, made from whole ingredients and easily traced from the dinner table back to farms where they were grown or raised.

We all know what happened from there. Thanks to explosive technological advances and clever marketing, we now prize foods for convenience, for not having to cook them.  Our modern lives with these novel foods are, of course, are no healthier and no less busy.

As the holiday season approaches, I urge you to give yourself and your loved ones the gift of traditional food – now and throughout the year. Our family, for example, has decided to take back breakfast. Cold cereal and milk, cereal bars and other convenience foods are out; steel cut oats, omelets and pancakes are in. We take pleasure in the ritual of preparing these dishes and sitting together for a few minutes each morning.

What whole, real foods do you find delicious and comforting? How might you enjoy the benefits of traditional foods throughout the year?

 

Words of Wisdom

Following are quotes from some of my favorite writers on the importance of eating traditional foods (in traditional ways) for health and well-being. For those unfamiliar with these authors and their books, they are worth a look.

 

Technology is a generous benefactor. To those who have wisely used his gifts he has bestowed freedom from drudgery; freedom to travel; freedom from the discomforts of cold, heat and dirt; and freedom from ignorance, boredom and oppression. But father technology has not brought us freedom from disease. Chronic illness in industrialized nations has reached epic proportions because we have been dazzled by his stepchildren – fast foods, fractionated foods, convenience foods, packaged foods, fake foods, embalmed foods, ersatz foods – all the bright baubles that fill up the shelves at our grocery stores, convenience markets, vending machines and even health food stores.
-Nourishing Traditions by Sally Fallon
 
We should pay attention to what our ancestors ate and incorporate those foods into our modern diet whenever possible, maybe with some modification (less salt, less fat, less sugar). For example, our staple grain will taste more appropriate if our ancestors ate it as well – barley and oats from the British Isles; rye and wheat from Europe; kasha from Eastern Europe and Russia; millet, teff, and sorghum from Africa; millet and rice from Asia; corn and quinoa from the Americas. 
-Food and Healing by Annemarie Colbin founder of the Natural Gourmet Institute
 
Real food is old and traditional, while industrial food is recent and synthetic….People everywhere love traditional foods. They’re fond of a nice steak, the crispy skin of roast chicken, or mashed potatoes made with plenty of milk and butter. But they’re afraid that eating these things might make them fat – or, worse, give them a heart attack. So they do as they’re told by the experts: they drink skim milk and order egg white omelets. Their favorite foods become a guilty pleasure. I believe the experts are wrong; the real culprits in heart disease are not traditional foods but industrial ones, such as margarine, powdered eggs, refined corn oil, and sugar. Real food is good for you.
-Real Food by Nina Planck
 
Without the guide of traditional wisdom – the accumulated knowledge about foods passed on for thousands of generations – crucial elements needed for a deep understanding of human health and disease are missing.
-Traditional Foods Are Your Best Medicine by Ronald F. Schmid
 
If we can’t rely on the marketers or the government or even the nutritionists to guide us through the supermarket woods, then who can we rely on? Well, ask yourself another question: How did humans manage to choose foods and stay healthy before there were nutrition experts and food pyramids or breakfast cereals promising to improve your child’s focus or restaurant portions bigger than your head? We relied on culture, which is another way of saying: on the accumulated wisdom of the tribe.
-Rules to Eat By (NY Times Magazine) by Michael Pollan
 
 
 
October 24th, 2011

I ate my homework.

It was delicious!

 

The bacon ends didn’t hurt.

 

 

Culinary school is the one pursuit in which your family begs you to bring work home. Our most recent assignment was to write a recipe for a simple bean soup. Judges in our family gave it a 10, 10 and 9.5 – Henry would have preferred pasta.

 

White Bean Soup with Collard Greens

A satisfying dinner on a fall evening. Be sure to soak the beans for 6-8 hours prior to cooking. Serve with warm, crusty bread.

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 4 ounces bacon ends (fat separated and reserved, meat diced)
  • 1 ½ cups diced onions
  • ¾ cup diced carrots
  • ¾ cup diced celery
  • 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  • 1 ½ cups pinto beans, soaked
  • 6 cups vegetable stock
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 cups chopped collard greens
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • ¼ cup chopped parsley (for garnish)

 

  1. Heat the oil in a 6-quart stock pot. Add the bacon meat and fat and cook for 5 minutes over medium-high heat for 5 minutes. Add the onions and a pinch of salt, reduce the heat to medium-low heat and cook for 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the carrots, celery and garlic and cook for 5 minutes more.
  2. Add the beans, stock, bay leaves and another pinch of salt. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Cook, covered, for about 45 minutes, or until the beans are tender.
  3. Add the collard greens and continue to simmer for about 20 minutes.
  4. Remove the bay leaves and bacon fat. Using the back of a wooden spoon, mash some of the beans against the pot. Continue until the soup has thickened slightly.
  5. Taste and season as desired. Garnish with parsley and serve.

Yields: 6 – 1 ½ cup servings

 

October 17th, 2011

Fall in love again

I swore I’d never eat another apple.

 

Same went for winter squash and those sorry looking bunches of chard that lay listless at every Greenmarket stand.

For those of us who view Greenmarket shopping as the postman sees his rounds (neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night…), those final weeks of winter try our patience as nothing else. Visits are uninspiring at best, and our meals become monotonous – bruised and mealy apples, rotting beets…it’s enough to send the most dedicated locavore straight to the produce section for some pineapple and bananas.

By the time I’ve packed away our heavy coats and purchased that first bunch of asparagus, I’m certain I’ll never eat another bite of sweet potato.

But to everything there is a season – winter gave way to spring and summer, replenishing our bodies and souls with sun, fun and flavor. And as we bade farewell to summer, I started to get that that fall feeling again – crisp and full of hope.

When the first new crop of apples turned up at my favorite spot, I knew that once again I was ready to fall in love…with fall.

Fall and early winter boast an amazing selection of produce. Below are some fun facts about foods you’re likely to see at farmers markets (and on SWR) in the coming months.*

Go get them while the getting’s good!

 

Fruits

Apples, raw and grated have been shown to reduce fever in children.

Cranberries, along with blueberries, are the only fruits native to the far north.

Grapes, skins and seeds contain resveratrol, a phytochemical that has been shown to promote longevity and prevent cancer, Alzheimer’s, Parkinson’s and heart disease.

Pears, unlike many other tree fruits, ripen best after picked. For ideal ripening, store at room temperature in a paper bag until the skin gives to gentle pressure.

 

Vegetables

Acorn Squash can be sliced thinly into horizontal, flower-like rounds for a creative presentation.

Beets, see here.

Broccoli contains twice as much vitamin C as an orange. Green mimosas anyone?

Brussels Sprouts are a traditional British Christmas dinner item. Though known for a bitter flavor, they are sweet and tender at their peak.

Butternut Squash will keep longer than any other member of the winter squash family.

Cauliflower has similar nutritional properties to broccoli but is easier to digest. Green and purple varieties are sweeter than the traditional white.

Delicata Squash has edible skin and a flavor similar to sweet corn.

Eggplant‘s botanical name, Solanum insanum, refers to Europeans’ belief that it caused insanity.

Fennel is thought to aid childbirth and lactation. It is also used to help cancer patients recover from radiation and chemotherapy.

Kale gets much tougher as it ages (Wood calls it the “grandmother of the whole cabbage family”). Young, tender kale can be lightly steamed while older kale will need to be cooked much longer.

Leeks, the sweet cousin of the onion, are an energizer – promoting physical, emotional or mental activity.

Parsnips must be eaten fresh for a tender, sweet flavor. Look for smooth, firm skins that are tan or cream-colored and free of blemishes.

Potatoes are one of the most commonly consumed staples. On average, Americans eat one potato a day.

Pumpkin, while known for making pies are not typically the ingredient in canned pumpkin (this is actually a yellow-skinned squash). If you wish to bake with them, opt for smaller sugar pumpkins, which are bread for their superior flavor and texture.

Rutabaga, the golden-colored cross between a turnip and cabbage, can be mashed and seasoned like potatoes.

Shallots are a key ingredient in French and New Orleans cooking.

Sunchokes (or Jerusalem Artichokes) are so named because their blossoms move from east to west throughout the day.

Sweet Potatoes are one of the most nutrient-dense vegetables and are delicious in a number of traditional holiday dishes or simply baked, with or without butter.

Turnips can be grated on top of a soup or salad to aid digestion.

*From The New Whole Foods Encyclopedia by Rebecca Wood.

 

Recipes coming soon…
Hearty White Bean Soup with Collard Greens
Baked Apples
Creamy Carrot Soup
 

 

October 5th, 2011

Culinary school is just like preschool…

…with sharper toys (and fire).

 

You may recall a book from the 80′s – All I Really Need to Know I Learned in Kindergarten, by Robert Fulghum. I remember it well as it sat on my grandmother’s coffee table for years. The book, a humorous collection of short essays, explains why we learn life’s most important lessons in our early years.

I thought of Fulghum’s book a few weeks ago as my older son started preschool.

 

 

Watching him begin his formal education, shortly after I started culinary school at the Natural Gourmet Institute, has demonstrated some amusing parallels…

 

Top 10 Reasons Culinary School is like Preschool

  1. We line up to wash our hands before class. And after going outside or using the bathroom.
  2. The teachers spend most of their time keeping us alive.  Surrounded by sharp objects, high flames and pressure cookers, they maintain a delicate balance between fostering independence and preventing bloodshed.
  3. We share our toys. Knives, peelers, ovens and burners – not to mention our personal space. Excellent preparation for the 6 train.
  4. We say the darndest things. ”Has anyone seen the see-yev?” Often we can’t pronounce, much less find, what we need.
  5. The messiest projects are the most fun(nest). There’s a reason why play dough has stood the test of time.
  6. The older kids seem so cool. Working a Friday Night Dinner with graduating students shows us just how much we still have to learn.
  7. Snack time is the best time. Nothing builds an appetite like dicing carrots and schlepping heavy stock pots for 8 hours.
  8. Clean up goes better when we all work together. Hard work and a good attitude make things faster and easier.
  9. We ruin our clothes. No amount of washing will make our chef’s whites look like they did on the first day of school.
  10. Look what I made at school today! We can’t wait to share our latest creation with friends and family. Some are more impressive than others, but our loved ones appreciate them all the same.

The only thing missing?

Nap time.

 

September 27th, 2011

What to Eat? Seasonal Food.

 

Quality Food Selection (Seasonal)

seasons of the year, seasons of the body

Seasonal cooking has improved my life, and my health, in countless ways.

It inspired the name and direction of this blog, which encourages readers to eat mindfully and take delight in discovering new foods. With access to seasonal foods, we spend less on groceries (because we are excited to eat what we buy), cook more (but eat less as we aren’t bored) and rarely get sick (whereas the change of seasons used to bring on cold or flu like clockwork).

Eating with the seasons delivers many benefits, particularly when observing other tenets of Quality Food Selection. Buying local is most connected to this endeavor, because, of course, if you’re eating something that was grown in your backyard, there’s a strong chance that it’s also in season.

 

Paging Mother Nature

On some level, we know that all things are seasonal. Weather changes. Plants sprout, bloom and wither. Fall celebrations mark the harvest, spring rituals mark new beginnings. Certain foods are inextricably linked with yearly events – watermelon at summer picnics, pumpkins at Halloween and Thanksgiving, chili for the Superbowl.

Holiday traditions aside, however, it’s fair to say that the modern consumer is fairly out of touch with the seasons.

We live, work and commute in climate controlled environments (save a few sweaty moments on the subway platform). Our supermarkets overflow with produce, meats and fish from across the globe – where climates and seasons differ drastically from our own. Both of these conditions have helped us to develop unconventional patterns (by traditional standards) – eating the same foods, prepared the same way, month in and month out.

Time to burst that food bubble – there’s a better way.

 

Mix Things Up

What surprised and delighted me most about seasonal cooking was how much variety it introduced to my diet -in terms of what I eat and how I prepare those foods. Given the smorgasbord of foods (and “foods”) available at the grocery store, I had expected the opposite effect.

How can limiting oneself to eating in season add variety? Think for a moment about a typical visit to the supermarket. While there are thousands of options at our fingertips, we typically buy the same 10-15 items at every visit. Bananas and apples – check. Cereal and milk – got it. Bread, deli meat and cheese – all set. We enjoy the visual thrill of grocery stores with so many varieties, but, unless cooking for a special occasion, few of us venture outside of our comfort zone.

While eating local, seasonal food limits the options on a given day, it also means that those options will change on a monthly, even weekly basis. Changing, but limited, options force us to be adventurous. For example, depending on the day and time of year, breakfast in our home will include any number of ingredients prepared in a variety of ways. Eggs from my asparagus omelette in April might be poached and served over fresh greens and herbs in June, then baked into a casserole with winter squash and greens by December.

Things weren’t always this way. In my early 20s, there was a 2-3 year period in which I ate oatmeal with banana for breakfast – every. single. morning. Over time, this left me bored, hungry (repeating the same foods has been shown to reduce satiety) and, at times, sick. My body wanted something different.

 

Feel Better

Seasonal cooking also considers the individual – one’s age and state of health. Chinese medicine recognizes that we are in a constant state of change – coming out of one season and entering another, growing or changing, becoming ill or healing. To enjoy food’s healing properties, we must adjust what and how we consume according to our unique needs.

  • In summer, eating more raw, cooling foods can help to balance us as we become overheated from high temperatures and long, active days. By the middle of winter, a slow-cooked stew warms us from the inside and provides energy to help us brave the elements.
  • At the same time, a toddler, who is rapidly growing and learning new things, is in a different season of life than older people, who generally try to avoid getting bigger (and forgetting things). The toddler likely needs a higher proportion of fat in his diet, while the older person may have difficulty digesting, and probably does not need, such rich foods.
  • A person in vibrant health may benefit from eating fermented dairy, very spicy foods or raw fruits and vegetables. That same person, when suffering from an illness, may benefit from simple, bland, easy to digest foods – more complex ingredients could overtax the body and slow recovery.

Most of us have access to the seasonal foods we need – the challenge is in figuring out what they are.

 

One a Day

As with many good habits, practice is the key. By learning about and trying seasonal foods, we learn what our bodies will enjoy and need.

My challenge to you? Practice seasonal eating once a day in one of the following ways…

 

  • Sample a new food from the farmers market
  • Try preparing one of your favorite foods in a new way – a faster, cooler preparation in warmer weather or a longer, warmer method in the cold months
  • Take a walk outside and observe the changes in your environment – how they make you feel and what food cravings they provoke

 

 

September 21st, 2011

Pickled Pink

 

Don’t be fooled by the name – pickling can be quite easy.

I long assumed that pickles were too delicious (and too salty) to provide much of a health benefit. Fortunately, my fears were misplaced – among pickling’s perks:

  • Improved digestion and immunity from active cultures and enzymes
  • Aid in metabolizing proteins
  • Increased absorption of minerals, such as iron
  • [Though beneficial in small quantities, consumption of large amounts may increase one's risk of esophageal cancer, based on a 2009 study of populations in China]

Quick pickles may not provide all of these health benefits due to a shorter fermentation process, but if you’ve never tried pickling, they’re a great place to start. Since beets are already a bit sweet, there’s no need to add the sugar that many commercial pickles contain. Pickled beets can be served as an appetizer, garnish or side dish in any number of ways, including:

  • Spread on mini toasts with a soft cheese
  • Sprinkled, along with toasted nuts, on top of a salad
  • Served prior to or with meals to stimulate hunger and digestion

As you’ll see below, I like to mix up the colors and add a bit of cucumber for variety. Store in airtight containers in the refrigerator for 1-2 weeks (quick pickles are easier to make but will not keep as long as those preserved in cans or vacuum-sealed jars). Discoloration and mushiness are a sure sign that your pickles have gone bad. When in doubt – throw them out!

 

Quick Pickled Beets and Cucumbers

 

  • 1-2 bunches beets (assorted colors)
  • 2 slicing cucumbers – peeled, seeded and diced
  • red wine vinegar (for red beets)
  • white wine vinegar (for cucumbers and white beets)
  • sea salt
  • olive oil

 

  1. Roast the beets.
  2. Meanwhile, toss the diced cucumbers with a generous amount of salt and white vinegar. Seal in an airtight container and place in the refrigerate for at least a few hours (ideally overnight).
  3. Dice the beets and toss (colors separate) with salt and vinegar (red for red, white for other colors). Set aside for 30 minutes, then add olive oil to coat. Seal in an airtight container and place in the refrigerator for at least a few hours (ideally overnight).
  4. Serve as desired!